Flavorful Origins: Gansu Niang Pi
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NIANG PI
[narrator] July.
The temperature is closeto 30 degrees Celsius.
To the people in Lanzhou,who are used to cool weather,
it’s already unbearably hot.
During this season,Bai Fahai’s shop is the busiest.
One classic food is the top choiceof locals during summer.
BAI FAHAI
What will you have?I’ll ask someone serve it to you.
One gaodan niang pizi.
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[narrator] Slightly yellowish in color,springy in texture.
Add a little bit of salt, vinegar,and garlic juice.
As the sauce is being mixed,it emits the rich aroma of sesame.
Add a spoonfulof reddish and bright chili oil.
The sour, spicy,and savory flavors collide.
It tastes rich and smooth to the mouth.
GAODAN NIANG PI
This kind of food is very high in demand.
In Bai Fahai’s shop,he still insists on making it by hand.
Mix the starch and waterin a ratio of one to two.
Repeatedly stir it for a period of time,
and you’ll get a smoothand silky starch mixture.
Next is the key step in the preparation.
The end product must havea thickness of one centimeter.
Forming the starch mixture’s shaperequires technique.
With the help of steam, the base partof the starch mixture solidifies.
Continuously move itto distribute the liquid evenly
and ensurethat the thickness is consistent.
After five minutes,the starch mixture is completely cooked.
It has a slightly translucentand yellowish color with even air holes.
After steaming, it seemslike its surface is still breathing
and emits a faint aroma.
Use a fan to cool it down quickly,and make it become firm.
Brush oil on it to prevent itfrom sticking
and to add to its aroma.
The people in Lanzhou callthis type of food
that’s produced from directly steamingstarch mixture gaodan niang pi.
Freshly baked niang pi still needsthe help of seasoning ingredients.
Chili is used in many ways in cooking.
Chinese chefs use dried chili
for its spicy aromaafter cooking on high heat.
In the northwest,chili oil is most commonly seen.
MASHED POTATO BALLS
CRISPY-FRIED LAMB CHOPS
In the past 30 years, Bai Fahai personally makes the chili oil.
From cooking the oil,each place’s recipe is unique.
Hot oil that’s 190 degrees Celsius awakensthe flavor substances in the chili.
A complex aroma is ignitedand becomes the soul of niang pi.
Chili oil and sesame saucebecomes inseparable
due to the refreshingand springy niang pi.
It accompanies the peopleof Lanzhou during their short summer.
Starchy food is being madeall throughout Lanzhou,
but each place has its own standards.
From their shapes to their tastesto the names they’re called,
they never reached a consensus.
ZHANGYE MULTI-COLORED NIANG PI
WUWEI, GANSU
WUWEI, LANZHOU
At night, after Wang Lanlan finishesthe work in her shop,
she’s starting to preparethe raw ingredients for the next day.
[indistinct Mandarin]
WANG LANLAN
In Wuwei,niang pi is made with one additional step.
Cook the dough in waterand stir repeatedly
to separate the starch from the gluten.
People in Wuwei call food madefrom filtered starch water mian pizi.
Usually potassium carbonatedissolved in water would also be added.
The salt and alkali content in itbrings a unique flavor.
Fill the entire steaming traywith starch mixture.
It’s five times thicker than Lanzhou gaodan niang pi.
Forty minutes is neededto steam it fully.
Because of the alkali contentin such a long period of time,
its surface gradually turns yellowuntil it becomes the color of tea.
This is the markthat only belongs to Wuwei’s mian pizi.
Compared to Lanzhou,Wuwei’s climate is drier.
Water evaporates more quickly as well.
Dry it naturally and its surfacegradually loses its water content,
but it’s still moist and springy inside.
Its color darkens further.
They’re both steamed, starched mixtures.From Lanzhou to Wuwei,
the niang pi’s color and texturebecome completely different.
Lunchtime is the main selling timefor Wuwei’s mian pizi.
Each time, her son would just getone piece from the sealed container,
and Wang Lanlan would make it on the spot.
What her loyal customers love
is this flavorthat hasn’t changed for decades.
Under the firm and chewy surface,it’s delicate and soft on the inside.
Two types of texturesthat are amazingly intertwined.
Cut them into small square pieces,the people in Wuwei call them dun dunzi.
Before serving them on the table,
a spoonful of seasoning saucemust be added.
Locals prefer a type of smoked vinegar.
They view it as an essential condimentfor their three meals daily.
It needs to be smoked with branto produce a burnt aroma.
It tastes mildly sour,thick, and flavorful.
With smoked vinegar as the base,
each household uses their own seasoning styles.
Wang Lanlan would addover ten kinds of spices at the same time
to give the smoked vinegar a more complicated aroma and flavor.
Lastly, use starch as the thickener.
The people of Wuwei call this curu.
Curu is sour, sweet, and thick.
Its sticky texturecompletely covers the mian pizi.
Paired with chili oil,it’s hot and spicy.
Behind a simple bowl of niang piis the thorough understanding
of the people of Gansutowards starchy food.
WUWEI MIAN PIZI
[instrumental music fades out]
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