[upbeat music]
[narrator] This is an art of storing foodand transforming flavors.
It was passed downfrom our ancestors 2,000 years ago.
With the passage of timeand the changes made by man…
[rustling]
…it has finally becomea unique flavor of Yunnan.
[indistinct chatter]
[lively music]
[narrator] This is one of the oldestingredients in China.
“Zha.”
Ingredients used are both vegetarianand non-vegetarian.
It originated in the olden days.
In Yunnan, people still usethe most conventional methods
and flavors up until today.
[rooster crows]
[narrator] Hometown delicaciesare like one’s mother tongue.
Both have meanings to peoplewho live far from home.
In Lai Yu, Chinese New Yearis around the corner.
Everyone is heading hometo celebrate together.
Granny Lu Guiying, knows whather grandchildren love the most.
LU GUIYING
A fermented fish dish is a mustfor the Chinese New Year reunion dinner.
[light music]
[clattering]
[narrator] Fresh, small Dianchi stonefishhave tender, rich meat.
But they have to be driedunder the sun first,
before becoming a usable ingredientfor Lu Guiying.
[narrator] Processing the ingredientsis very important
in determining the final tasteand texture.
This is a fundamental principlefor making fermented vegetables.
Today, in Kunming,Li Huiqiong is going to learn
how to make a fermented vegetable dishfrom her aunt.
[thumps]
[narrator] Yunnan’s eggplantshave thick and fluffy flesh
and a thin outer layer.
She cuts it into strips,exposing the puffy sponge-looking flesh.
After the water evaporatesfrom the eggplant,
it slowly becomes tender and chewy.
[tranquil music]
[wind swooshes]
SALTED FLOUR SLICED RADISH, TOFU
SALTED FLOUR TARO
[narrator] Fermenting mixed vegetables,meats, and flour is known as “Zha”.
There are plenty of dishessimilar to this all round China.
-[rustling]-[distant chatter]
YUNNAN DALI, HEQING
[lively music]
[narrator] In Heqing, a small townin northern Yunnan,
it’s pig slaughtering season.
ZHAO SHUANGXIU
Zhao Shuangxiu gathersher main ingredients.
Pork large intestine, lean pork spine,and pork belly
all in one pot to make her signaturefermented pork dish.
These ingredients are waitingto be seasoned.
[rustling]
[narrator] After three days under the sun,
the eggplant has lost 80 percentof its water content, becoming very firm.
The little stonefish in Lu Guiying’s househave already become chewy and bouncy.
These ingredients will be coatedwith various types of seasoning.
Spiciness and saltiness arethe fundamental flavors of fermented food.
It is also a crucial requirementin extending the shelf life of the food.
YUNNAN, KUNMING
Besides the recipespassed down through generations,
every type of “Zha” presentsits very own unique flavors.
Its flavors varybased on personal preferences.
LI HUIQIONG
[narrator] Li Huiqiong found hervery own flavor for her fermented eggplant
with her aunt’s guidance.
[rustling]
She grinds rice into a powder
and mixes it together with dried eggplantat a one-to-one ratio.
Starch from grain can produce lactic acidand facilitate fermentation.
It can prevent bacterial growth
and, at the same time,change the taste of the eggplant.
[light music]
[narrator] In addition to rice flour,
some other areas use corn flouror glutinous rice flour for fermentation.
This is a necessary step in making “Zha”.
After sealing up the vat,Li Huiqiong needs to wait
until she is ableto examine her hard work.
YUNNAN DALI, HEQING
[bird chirping]
[narrator] About 480 kilometersaway in Heqing,
the fermented pork must be ready beforethe village celebration dinner starts.
Zhao Shuangxiu has her own secret weapon.
[cabinet door creaks open]
[suspenseful music]
[spoon scraping]
[squelching]
[narrator] After three months,
the fermented yellow beansappear to be sticky.
This is a sign of proteins breaking down.
The organic acid product suppressesthe unpleasant smell of raw pork,
and brings with it an alluring fragrance.
Chilies and Sichuan peppersprovide a fervent heat.
While white wine imparts a mellow scent.
[light music]
[squelches]
[narrator] The strong flavor combinationis what defines
the signature fermented pork of Heqing.
YUNNAN KUNMING, SHILONG VILLAGE
[narrator] Besides carefully choseningredients,
the environment for making “Zha"is strictly controlled as well.
Dried fish and chili powderare mixed together
with Sichuan pepper powder and salt.
Now, the last step that awaitsis fermentation.
-[rustles]-[clinks]
[narrator] Constructing a perfectfermentation room is a technical task.
LU GUIYING
A clay pot alone is not enoughto get things done.
These hay bundles are the most importantelement to fermenting the fish.
Since her youth, Lu Guiyinghas mastered this skillful technique.
[tranquil music]
[narrator] She transforms the bundled hayinto a cork and seals the pot tightly.
She then turns the clay pot overto stop the airflow.
The hay bundle acts like a doorthat can be opened or closed,
and can also absorb excess waterfrom the fish.
This keeps the pot dry on the insideand prevents unwanted bacterial growth.
Microorganisms in the clay potare about to kick-start a crazy party.
Different amounts of time are requiredfor fermenting different ingredients.
SALTED FLOUR FISH, 1 MONTH
SALTED FLOUR EGGPLANT, 2 MONTHS
SALTED FLOUR PORK LIVER, 12 MONTHS
[narrator] Two months later,the fermented eggplant is ready.
The eggplant strips are evenly coatedwith chili powder.
it is tender, accompanied bya slight hint of sourness.
[sizzling]
[narrator] Frying the eggplant in hot oil
can elevate its lusciousnessand chewiness.
SALTED FLOUR EGGPLANT
[light music]
[squelches]
[narrator] The pork has been fermentedfor four seasons.
Boiling it in a pot of hot soupwill give you the aroma of mellowness.
The pork intestine fatsmelt into the hot, spicy soup,
while chewy meatencases crunchy pork spine bones
and the pork meat is tender and savory.
SALTED FLOUR PORK LIVER
[sizzling]
[narrator] Lu Guiying’s fermented fishis ready before the New Year too.
Frying it on low heat,
the fish meat appears to be firm,luscious, and intensely flavorful,
with a strong scent of spices.
This is the alluring taste of homefor her grandchildren.
SALTED FLOUR FISH
Time to eat.
[all clamoring]
[narrator] A bowlof fermented fish is enough
to satisfy the taste budsof her whole family.
And now, they will welcomea brand new year together.
[overlapping dialogue]
[narrator] Li Huiqiong’sfermented eggplant is cooked to perfection
and will soon be an appetizerin her restaurant.
[indistinct chatter]
[narrator] Zhao Shuangxiu savesthe best dish
for the village celebration dinnerin Heqing.
Aromatic and spicy fermented porkadds excitement to the celebration.
[uplifting music]
[narrator] On mankind’s long journeyof discovering flavors,
the collision of ingredientsand food storage techniques
often resultsin unexpectedly good outcomes.
“Zha” is a kind of food that,while derived from ancient history,
continues providingmore exciting tasty experiences
and adding new flavors to life.
[closing theme music]
Subtitle translation by Coleen Chua